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This is an excellent accessory flash to the Olympus professional system.
By accessory I mean that it provides some signifcant additional features
that may be useful. But, there is no reason buy one of the Metz 58 or
the smaller Metz 48 in place of the Olympus FL-50R or FL-36R.
The reasons to consider the Metz 58 AF-1 for Olympus are because:
1. It provides somewhat greater power.
2. The secondary flash provides read eye reduction when the
primary flash is in either direct or bounce positions.
3. The modeling light function is useful with live view.
4. The strobe light function has specialized applications.
The build quality is comparable to the Olympus FL-50R.
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I got this package on time, and in good shape. The price was alittle to good too be true. And it was. The Flash is what I payed for, cheaply made, but, it works good. The problem showed up when I installed the Hot Cable to My XTi inorder to extend My Flash. The Cable mounting clip got stuck in the Hot Connect on the Camera. The Maker of this part made this plastic slid too thick for the guide on the cameras hot connect. I was able to get it out of the mount,but, I had to have a Camera Guy do it. He said it was just cheaply made. Now I need to find a better made Hot Cable.
The OMS-D1 flash booster / slave is good for photographers who want photos with better lighting. I use it as a secondary slave flash fill to remove any flash shadow your camera flash might leave. It gives you better photos of people if you place it to one side of your subject, so it will light the side of their face and cover the shadow behind them. Place it pointed in the same direction as the camera, but off to one side. It helps to use a white gym sock, cut- off four inches of the toe end and cover the flash booster with it. This reduces the light output and gives a more natural look to your photo. It produces a lot of light. This is a handy accessory to have to get better photos.
This is an inexpensive little slave flash that actually works. I have a Canon A570 and, like most small digicams, it has a fairly weak builtin flash. It couldn't illuminate properly more than 10 feet away and I also didn't like the glare on faces from below 7 or 8 feet. This is typical with direct builtin flash. When using this flash, I generally turn off the camera redeye preflash and set the camera to the manual Aperture setting with the aperture set to f4.5. I also set the flash control on the camera to the 2/3 setting. I set the Sunpak to slave mode. So, when the camera flash fires, the Sunpak also fires and I get much better photos, especially when I bounce the flash off a white ceiling. Much more natural and even lighting effect with a ... Read More:
March 21, 2006
I use this bracket for shooting weddings, simply L-O-V-E it. Word of caution, you WILL need a camera anti-twist plate AND a flash anti-twist plate. If you can't find one for your flash, I suggest you make one, I made one out of a washer, works great. Also you'll need to remove the pop out support leg, as it does more harm that good (it gets in the way of larger lenses and has a tendency to rub against your fingers). Also be prepared to have to re tighten the point where the bracket meets the bottom, it does and will get loose from time to time. Try some lock-tight to help.
Once you start using a bracket that swings OVER your hand, not under it. You will never go back to lesser brackets.
I use this bracket for shooting weddings, simply L-O-V-E it. Word of caution, you WILL need a camera anti-twist plate AND a flash anti-twist plate. If you can't find one for your flash, I suggest you make one, I made one out of a washer, works great. Also you'll need to remove the pop out support leg, as it does more harm that good (it gets in the way of larger lenses and has a tendency to rub against your fingers). Also be prepared to have to re tighten the point where the bracket meets the bottom, it does and will get loose from time to time. Try some lock-tight to help.
Once you start using a bracket that swings OVER your hand, not under it. You will never go back to lesser brackets.
Gossen meters don't have the bells and whistles of some others but one thing I trust them for is accuracy. I have tried other brands and have seen the inconsistency among them in their readings, up to 2 stops between the same model even.
This model is an upgrade from my older gossen digi 6 flash meter as I wanted a swivel head, otherwise they are similar meters.
Another note is that even in this instant preview digital age for serious studio work a flash meter is still a must for studio work.
Actually, I bought an Alzo Wireless Kit and one of this extra receiver, they are pretty useful. I have it for my Elinchrom D-Lite to Go set and I can say they really go for the distance announced and they failed just for a couple of shoots (One of the receivers have failed each time), wich is not a big issue, I know even Elinchrom Skyports fail sometimes, is seems to be normal.
It work in the four frequencies announced like a charm.
The only bad thing I can say about them is that the receiver may trigger themselves if you move your light with them on, probably because of the cord. This is why I didn't give 5 stars, but is really not a very big deal, you can attach them to your lights.
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